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Matters of taste: Vegetables fit for the gods

"Yamashita sells his vegetables to only seven chefs, all of them Michelin starred"

Click here to read more from our November 2016 issue

Cabbage White butterflies fluttered along a row of brassicas, big tough verdigris outer leaves, interior shaded milk jade to tender neon.

“It is a variety called the petit-vert,” said Asafumi Yamashita as he gave us a tour of his garden farm on the edge of the Paris suburbs at the end of September. “It is a mix between kale and brussels sprouts. A Japanese farmer created it 20 years ago, but he wouldn’t sell his seeds. Eventually…

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