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Matters of taste: Is the freshest fish always best?

Just like meat, the proteins and enzymes that are released post-mortem have an effect on flavour and texture

"Long-lining" for mackerel. © Des Colhoun

Family summer holiday in Cornwall. The usual early morning mizzle gave way to blue sky. Nine Steavensons and a couple of friends went mackerel fishing. The oldest among us was 80, the youngest was three. We chugged out of the Camel Estuary past Padstow into the near Atlantic where the deep blue sea rose and fell in rolling swells. The nice fisherman showed us how to hook the fishing poles through our elbows, let the weighted lines run…

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