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Matters of taste

Despite Asda's £2 chicken, many predict that the era of cheap food is coming to an end. If this causes us to start valuing our food properly again, it will be no bad thing

By Alex Renton   139

The end of cheap food?

Not many of you, I suspect, will have noticed the arrival in August of the £2 chicken at Asda, Britain’s cheapest supermarket chain. But it produced a glimmer of light in the generally dismal history of mass-produced food. Asda’s 1.55kg bird (cheaper, kilo for kilo, than the store’s dog and cat food) was less a marvel of battery-chicken technology than a tactical coup in the price war that drives Britain’s big retail chains: the chicken went on sale as a loss leader, a yah-boo-sucks to Asda’s rivals in the battle to be seen providing…

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